Fiestas Patrias!!!

Feliz Dieciocho! Fiestas Patrias is Chile’s independence day and marks the beginning of the country’s independence process which began in 1810. This stately holiday is recognized every September 18th. However, in practice, there’s been some sort of festivity everyday since the first of the month, with the grand finale taking place this past weekend. Events have included constant Cueca dancing, two parades (one of which I marched in with the school), games, our local park was converted into a carnival, las ramadas, which was open 24/7, and lots of food and drinks – truly, I had no idea it was possible to consume so much food for so many consecutive days. Chileans have shown me an entirely new level of holiday eating.

Here’s a few examples of the traditional foods I’ve been enjoying:
Empanadas: in appearance, they’re very similar to the Italian calzones; usually made with meat, onions, egg and always had one little olive.
Longaniza: sausage
Anticuchos: kabobs; usually include steak and longaniza
Sopaipillas: those doughnut-like pastries I’ve mentioned before
Mariscoes: seafood, specifically muscles and clams
Humitas: Chilean tamales
Carne, carne and more carne: steak, steak, and more steak
Alfajores: two sweet biscuits topped with powdered sugar and joined together by sweetened condensed milk and tastes like caramel (their a little too sweet for me)
Mote con huesillo: a sweet drink/dessert with husked wheat (mote), with sun-dried peaches (huesillo) and mixed with surgar water
Chicha: a fermented beverage, and in Chile it’s usually made from grapes or apples (delicious!)
Ponche: basically it's fruit punch but it was frequently made with Fanta
Wine: from Chile of course

It all sounds so healthy doesn’t it!

The Endless Celebration: The last couple of weeks flew by so quickly I’m hardly able to recall all that I saw and did. Throughout the month, I’d frequently show up to school prepared to teach a class only to find the students had been excused so they could practice marching for the parade or watch their companions in a Cueca competition. It was frustrating at times, never knowing what to expect, but it's been enjoyable watching how enthusiastic Chileans are about this holiday.

The school converted it's quad into a fairground (las ramadas, or booths decorated with branches to look more like a fort) in which the students sold traditional foods, dressed as huasos, and danced the Cueca. We also celebrated twice with the teachers at the school. The feasts included BBQ'd anticuchos, empanadas, wine, and desserts. It was interesting to watch our supervisors get a little tipsy and dance with each other. Earlier in the week, we were invited to another teacher's home to spend the day eating and meeting his family. His son took the three of us on a tour of Lake Lleu Lleu, a few beaches in the area, and introduced us to Curanilahue's nightlife.

Friday: With my stomach still full from each previous day's mountains of food, I took a deep breath, tried to suck it in, and braced myself for Friday and Saturday. On the illustrious 18th, we went to Violeta's home and enjoyed watching her make empanadas (straight out of a mud oven) with the company of her entire family. Chilean’s are said to be quick with the quips, and Violeta and her family are no exception. They’re quality of life is different, in fact I’d certainly say it’s less than ideal – I feel guilty that my own circumstances permit me to recognize this difference. Nonetheless, they are some of the most amusing people I have met here and offer such a true impression of the real Chile. I left her home with renewed appreciation for the option between lamenting what you lack and cherishing what you have. It’s such a cliché thing to say, especially since poverty is everywhere and everyone knows it. But recognizing this doesn’t make poverty any less palpable to the onlooker. I saw how happy her family is in each other, how they make do with what they have, and considered how much worse things could be. I admire all of them.

Saturday: By now I was so full that the prospect of any food for the next year seemed too soon. Just one more day…We ate and celebrated at our host mother’s son’s home. Everyone sat around a long table with lots of conversation, and of course, endless offerings of food. Each night, these sorts of celebrations continued for hours and hours with no one retiring to bed until around 3:00 am - exhausting! I looked about in complete bewilderment as to how my Chilean friends and family had the energy to continue like this. Conclusion: Chileans love to party and are exceptionally good at it.

Now that holiday has passed and school has resumed, I'm looking forward to things getting back to normal...then again, I'm not entirely sure what normal is anymore. Routine is what's desired right now. There was so much to take in, I'm in need of a good quiet week to wrap my head around all that passed and let things sink in.